It’s impossible to imagine the horror that occurred there. But after three days in Gettysburg, I think I have a better understanding of why the battle that took place on July 1, 2 and 3, 1863, is forever engraved in the psyche of our nation.
My wife and I went there for two reasons: first, to visit with her sister Barb and our brother-in-law Mike, who — having recently retired — now have the chance to travel from their Texas home to see America’s sights by camper; second, to better understand why the Battle of Gettysburg is such an important event.
I had been there once before on a quick trip with Sherri and our son Colin. We spent one day visiting the museum and driving around the battlefield. That visit, though brief, was deeply moving. It’s impossible to grasp the size of the battlefield without seeing it, since it is not one, but many battlefields that encompass 25 square miles and envelope the small town of Gettysburg in its center.
On that first trip, as we stood by the Peace Monument and its eternal flame, a terrible smell like dog feces permeated the cold afternoon air. I wasn’t the only one who noticed it; a nearby couple, the only other visitors to that area, commented too. Only after Sherri did a little research did we learn that those smells — the rotting flesh of horses and men who perished in the fields below — can sometimes resurface even today.
Nobody seems to have an accurate count of how many men died. But we know there were at least 51,000 casualties, and more than 3,000 men are buried in the National Cemetery. Between 4,000 and 7,000 horses and mules also were killed — and presumably lay longer before burial than their human riders.
If you read anything at all about the Battle of Gettysburg, you’ll quickly learn that it was not one battle but many, in which soldiers from 18 Union states and 12 Confederate states — 165,000 soldiers in all — fought for what they believed to be freedom.

The battlefield at night
According to “Gettysburg by the Numbers,” a little white book of statistics compiled by park ranger Chuck Teague, the average age of the soldiers was 19 and their average weight 145 pounds. And they died like flies. Nearly a third of the soldiers from Connecticut were either injured, missing or killed. One in four Michiganders was injured, missing or killed. For Minnesota, Florida and Tennessee, the number was 60 percent. When the fighting ended, at least 25,000 muskets were recovered from the field and 85 percent were loaded. Forty percent of those loaded guns had multiple loads, meaning that the soldiers in the heat of battle had forgotten they had already tamped down charge, ball and paper, and did it again — and again.
Today, people are still digging bullets and bones out of the ground in a place where both fell thickly 146 years ago. And when you walk in the still, open fields, deliberately kept as they were nearly 150 years ago, you feel as though you are walking on souls.
It’s no wonder that ghost stories abound. I am a skeptic when it comes to these things; I believe that human souls live on after the body dies, but where they go is a mystery. Is there a heaven? I like to think so. Is there a hell? If so, it may be at Gettysburg. Is it possible for a soul to remain tied to its past, unable to escape? Maybe.
As we sat at breakfast yesterday morning with other guests at our bed and breakfast — the only B&B that sits right in the middle of the battlefield — a young woman said that in the night she heard something in her ear and then felt a brush across her cheek. The owner said he has had many such reports within the house and at nearby homes. For example, a recent recording of a normal conversation at a house across the street, when played back, was punctuated by the unexplained screams of a young man. In the parking lot, as we were getting ready to leave, I encountered another guest, wearing a Harley Davidson jacket and a mustache, who volunteered reluctantly that in the night someone had tucked his feet in at the bottom of his bed.
As for me, the skeptic? On Sunday night, out at the observation tower on Oak Ridge, a quarter mile from our B&B, Sherri and I stood to see what the place was like at midnight. There was a strong wind coming from my right. And that’s why it was so strange that a white mist moved in front of me going in the opposite direction.